Embracing the Unpredictability of Iceland

“If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes. And if you like the weather, also wait five minutes,” our guide told us during one of our tours, and she couldn’t have been more right. Her words encapsulated all that it was like to venture into the arctic air of Iceland in February and the ever-changing elements we faced. Choosing to travel to Iceland in the middle of winter was definitely a bold choice, but it was one that led to an experience unlike any I’ve ever had.

Our journey took us into Iceland’s magical land known for boundless beauty in the form of glaciers, geysers, and lagoons. It’s a land where ferocious Vikings once walked and the lore of mythical creatures lurks. We spent hours driving through the vast countryside to get to Iceland’s most mesmerizing locations, passing through the miles of snow-covered volcanic rock and fields filled with the long-haired Icelandic horses. Each day brought scenery that looked as if it was straight from a movie or the pages of an epic novel. I had never experienced an adventure quite like this.

While normally I would choose a trip involving lounging by the pool under palm trees and sunshine, this one pushed me far past my comfort zone and into a foreign country literally named for its icy landscape. While there, we were faced with an unforeseen snowstorm, closed down roads, and canceled tours. We never knew what was around the corner, but I quickly learned the importance of embracing the uncertainty and taking each day one moment at a time.

Old Meets New in Reykjavik

We spent our first day in Reykjavik enjoying the city and getting used to the time difference. Some must-see spots are the Harpa Music Hall, with its 10,000 honeycomb windows lighting up different colors at night, as well as Hallgrímskirkja Church which was designed to represent the basalt columns of Iceland’s famous black sand beaches. The buildings of the city are nestled into each other along every hill, giving the feeling of a quaint village and mixed with the modern, sleekness of Scandinavia. We stopped by the Icelandic Craft Bar on our first day which would soon become our favorite spot for trying the local beer after long cold days.

Not-So-Peaceful Blue Lagoon

On our second day, we quickly threw out any expectations for the trip—a valuable lesson I needed to learn about traveling in Iceland. As the Blue Lagoon is known for its milky blue waters and tranquility, we were expecting a very relaxing day. However, it was so snowy and windy that our experience in the otherworldly waters was also one of frozen ears and cheeks. Some moments were so blustery that we couldn’t even see right in front of us. Luckily the lagoon is about 100 degrees with steam caves and saunas we could hide in when the storm wouldn’t let up. The rejuvenating day we had pictured for ourselves was long gone, but making the most of the crazy weather certainly made it an experience for the books.

As soon as we started on the bus ride home our driver got word that the road was closed and we would need to turn around. For some reason, Icelanders don’t know how to handle the snow? We asked locals trying to figure out why they didn’t really plow or salt the streets, but we couldn’t get a good answer. I was expecting them to be even more prepared than us New Englanders, but I guess not. After waiting on the bus for a few hours, we finally had a “rescue team” escort us out. On the bus ride back I swear I saw the Northern Lights dancing across the sky in green splashes—so maybe it was for the best that we were delayed.

Feeling Golden at the Golden Circle

That night I got an email that the tour we had planned for the next day to Iceland’s southern coast had been canceled due to the storm. We were so bummed. They booked us for an underground lava cave tour instead, but after waiting on the bus for an hour, that tour was canceled too. I started to worry—what if we didn’t get to see the things we had come to Iceland for? What if we didn’t make it to any of the natural sensations of the country? Back at our Airbnb we quickly booked another tour for Iceland’s famous Golden Circle, a route comprised of Thingvellir National Park, Geysir, and Gullfoss waterfall, and this tour also had a stop at the Secret Lagoon.

The quick decision to attend this tour ended up creating one of my favorite moments of the entire trip—our time at the Secret Lagoon. Unlike the Blue Lagoon, the waters aren’t bright turquoise in color, but the steamy natural pool is just as stunning and surrounded by beautiful mossy volcanic rocks and snowy mountains. We even got some blue skies. With the sun shining on my face, being in that giant hot tub-like lagoon became one of my favorite moments, because it was so unanticipated. They say the best things happen when you least expect it and that couldn’t have been more true.

Another highlight of our Golden Circle adventure was Gullfoss waterfall. With a size so massive, photos just don’t do it justice. When we arrived, I was not nearly expecting the waterfall to be as enormous as it was in front of us. From the platform up high, we overlooked the cascading falls and into the deep gorge formed by the river below. The waterfall flows like a staircase with two separate and steep falls, and icicles formed like art along the edges. When I looked all the way down, it truly took my breath away. And as the wind whipped ferociously, I smiled through a completely numb face and felt like I was standing at the top of the world.


Finally Reaching the South Coast

On Saturday, we finally reached Iceland’s south coast. Our guide warned us that a storm would be encroaching upon us by the afternoon and we would have to be efficient at all of our stops. The pressure made me uneasy. What if they closed down the roads again? What if our bus got stuck and we couldn’t return to the city?

Throughout the 10 hour adventure, we drove through what seemed like endless isolated land. With mountains and volcanoes emerging in the distance, the landscape reminded me over and over again that we were so far from home. Our guide told stories of Iceland’s magic myths and folklore—the stuff of elves and trolls—which the early settlers used to explain the erratic land and get through the harsh winters. First, we stopped at Reynisfjara, Iceland’s most famous black sand beach, whose basalt columns and sea stacks off the shore make for a majestic sight. Even though it was bustling with tourists, the beach was so beautiful, and it felt like we were at the end of the earth. I’m used to being at the beach, but nothing compared to the black lava rocks and unique basalt columns and caves of this one.

Later, we hiked along an icy trail surrounded by stark white mountains to get a glimpse of a blue glacier, and visited two more of Iceland’s most famous waterfalls, Skogafoss, and Seljalandsfoss. At each stop, the weather changed at the drop of a hat—from blue skies one second to rain and wind the next. With a sopping wet jacket and drenched hair, I fully let go of any worries I had for what I looked like and had no choice but to embrace the elements—such as the soaking wet spray from Skogafoss. Getting past the crowds to in front of the falls meant getting close enough to feel and hear its mighty roar. By the second waterfall, Seljalandsfoss, sunny skies shined and it felt surprisingly warm. Beside Seljalandsfoss are many other smaller waterfalls that cascade down from the rocks and into small rivers. With the splashing sound of all the falls, it felt so peaceful and magical. I could see why the locals had so many myths and legends about this mystical land.

By the end of the day we had beat out the snowstorm, making it to all the destinations I was dreaming of, and they all exceeded my expectations. Not to mention, the anticipation and adrenaline of the journey certainly made it even more exciting.

As I think back on this trip, the more and more I fall in love with it. The people were kind, the city was cozy, and its nature was breathtaking. It’s easy to see why so many choose to visit and some more even choose to stay. Despite the twists and turns and ups and down, Iceland truly took me on an adventure of a lifetime. It taught me that not every trip is going to be all that you expect it to be—that trips to a new and unusual land can be messy, sometimes stressful, and overall unpredictable. But, that all made it so much more worthwhile and unforgettable. If you’re up for the challenge, I recommend taking on Iceland in the winter, but spring and summer would definitely be nice too.